Few places in the world host as many sperm whales as the clear blue waters off the Caribbean island of Dominica. Over 20 different families have been observed here, offering a spectacular experience for divers and scientists alike. The inspiration behind Moby Dick, the giant whales are indeed nautical legends – but encounters with them need to be handled with care and respect.
On their most recent trip out to sea, underwater photographer Franco Banfi and freediver Sabrina Belloni spent ten days off Dominica, hoping (but not counting on) a whale encounter. "Sometimes you can approach [marine life] and they are happy, but other days they disappear," says Belloni, who makes a point of allowing wildlife to approach her rather than the other way around.
The pair was lucky enough to be joined on their dive by not just one, but seven sperm whales, a mixed pod of adults and calves. Female sperm whales live in stable groups called "units", mostly made up of matrilines: females born into a unit will live with the other females for life, while male calves will leave at maturity, setting off alone to search for mates.
These marine behemoths can reach up to 18 metres (60ft) in length and weigh up to 60 metric tonnes (125,000lbs).
"You could hear them," recalls Belloni. "While we were there, there was a buoy with a net and one whale was scanning it with 'click, click' sounds to understand what it was."
For Banfi, encounters like these are about raising awareness about marine life and highlighting the beauty of the underwater world. "It's not just about getting good photos," he says. "It's important to hone your expedition skills [so you don't disturb the natural world]." The pair didn't touch the whales, even when the animals approached close enough.
"If they stayed close to the surface and accepted our presence, [only then would we] swim underwater and reach the right position to take underwater pictures," says Belloni.
In the United States, the Marine Mammal Protection Act prohibits getting so close to whales and their kin, something experts hope to achieve in the Caribbean too, as popular demand for encounters is fuelling a growing industry – and some divers are not as respectful as Belloni.
While some Caribbean countries have laws in place to regulate whale watching, others have guidelines only, and many regulations relating to wildlife are poorly enforced in the region. Most states are signatories of the SPAW Protocol (the only legally binding environmental treaty for the region), which prohibits disturbance.